Mexico City: Coyoacán coyotes, parks, and mole

After touring the Frida Kahlo Museum , we walked around Coyoacán, one of Mexico City's charming historic neighborhoods with sherbet-colored buildings, bustling plazas, green parks, a food and souvenir market, and coyotes everywhere. No, not real ones. "Coyoacán" means "place of coyotes" in the Aztec language Nahuatl.

Two bronze coyotes frolic in a large fountain in Jardín Centenario, within view of a lovely patio at Los Danzantes , where we had lunch.

We sampled a variety of moles (pronounced MOH-lays), earthy, rich sauces made from dried chiles, herbs, fruits, tomatillos, and/or sometimes chocolate.

David and I tried chapulines --- fried whole grasshoppers, a traditional Oaxacan snack-- stuffed into plantain hush puppies. They were pretty good, and I just tried to ignore the occasional leg sticking out. At the market we saw mole powders and pastes piled high like modeling clay.

The colorful buildings of Coyoacán make a pretty backdrop for the occasional potted aloe or rambling bougainvillea.

This classic car squeezed into a narrow gated driveway reminded me of the husband's daily parking ritual in the movie Roma .

Across the street from the market, Parque Allende's neatly fenced boxwood hedges rein in an exuberance of bold and airy foliage and glowing white flowers.

Strappy African iris, Acanthus mollis , and other plants I don't know are block-planted within the orderly hedges. The brick-red stucco of a neighboring building makes a perfect contrast with powder-blue agaves.

Coyoacán didn't elicit any howls of disappointment from us! We explored for a few hours and then headed back to our Airbnb in the Centro Histórico neighborhood, which I'll show in my next post.

Up next: Purple jacarandas, spiky agaves, and more in Centro Histórico, the historic center of Mexico City. For a look back at the Frida Kahlo Museum and garden , click here.

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