Dhaka
Everything you need to know before you go.
Dhaka is a sensory assault. It is loud, crowded, and chaotic. You will spend hours in rickshaws navigating traffic that feels like a puzzle. It is for people who want a raw urban experience and do not mind a bit of grit. The city feels high energy and unpredictable.
Spend your time in Old Dhaka to see the Lalbagh Fort and Ahsan Manzil. These sites are crowded but worth the trip. For architecture, visit the National Parliament House. If you need a break from the noise, head to Banani or Gulshan. These areas have modern cafes and shopping malls.
Eat Kacchi Biryani in Old Dhaka for $3 to $6. Try Bakarkhani, a traditional salty bread, for about $1. For dessert, look for Mishti Doi. A meal at a local eatery usually costs under $5. High end restaurants in Gulshan cost between $20 and $50 per person.
Sightseeing Lalbagh Fort - 17th century Mughal fort in Old Dhaka. $2, 2h. Ahsan Manzil - The Pink Palace by the Buriganga river. $2, 2h.
Food & Drink Haji Biryani - Get the Kacchi Biryani in Old Dhaka. $5, 1h. Dhanmondi Lake Cafes - Grab coffee and snacks by the water. $7, 2h.
Outdoor Nature Hatirjheel - Walk along the waterfront or take a boat. $3, 2h.
Nightlife Banani Lounges - Hotel bars in Banani for cocktails. $20, 3h.
Cultural Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban - Louis Kahn's brutalist parliament building. $0, 1h. Bangladesh National Museum - History of the region in Shahbag. $2, 3h.
Shopping New Market - Local clothes and home goods in the city center. $15, 3h.
Day Trips Sonargaon - The ancient capital and Folk Art Museum. $15, 6h.
Budget Hotel Moonlight - Dhanmondi. $30-$60/night. Basic but clean and located in a quiet residential area. Hotel Palace - Uttara. $25-$50/night. A practical choice if you need to be close to the airport.
Mid-range Hotel Summit - Banani. $90-$160/night. Very consistent service and a reliable breakfast. Hotel Sarina - Kawran Bazar. $70-$130/night. A solid middle ground for price and comfort.
Luxury InterContinental Dhaka - Kawran Bazar. $220-$350/night. The standard for high end stays and close to the National Parliament House. The Westin Dhaka - Gulshan. $200-$300/night. Great rooms and centrally located in the expat district.
Restaurants Star Kabab (Kebab/Mughlai) - Old Dhaka. $3-$8. Order the Seekh Kabab and Naan near Ahsan Manzil. Kacchi Bhai (Biryani) - Dhanmondi. $5-$10. Try the Kacchi Biryani for a local staple. Takeout (American/Fusion) - Banani. $10-$20. Their burgers are a favorite among locals. The Mughal (Mughlai) - Gulshan. $20-$40. Good for traditional slow cooked meats. Izumi (Japanese) - Gulshan. $30-$60. High quality sushi and sashimi.
Fly into Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (DAC). You will not find a direct flight from the US. Most people fly through Dubai, Doha, or Istanbul. From New York (JFK) or Chicago (ORD), expect to pay between $1,200 and $1,700 for a round trip. Prices spike during December and January.
Once you land, download Uber or Pathao. Do not try to negotiate with the taxi drivers waiting outside the terminal unless you enjoy a long argument. An Uber to the city center usually costs $12 to $20. Public buses exist, but they are chaotic and not recommended for someone with luggage. The drive to areas like Gulshan or Banani takes anywhere from 45 minutes to two hours. Dhaka traffic is some of the worst in the world, so plan for delays.
If you are coming from another city in Bangladesh, like Chattogram, you can take a train or a long distance bus. The train is more comfortable and costs about $10 to $25 for a decent seat. A bus is cheaper, around $8 to $15, but the roads are unpredictable.
Stay in Gulshan or Banani. These neighborhoods have the best hotels, cafes, and security. If you want something more local but still manageable, try Dhanmondi.
When you eat, look for Kacchi Biryani. It is a slow cooked mutton and rice dish. You can find it at places like Star Kabab. A meal there will cost you $5 to $10. For street food, try Fuchka, which are crispy shells filled with spiced potatoes. A plate costs about $1 to $2.
Visit the National Parliament House for its architecture. It is one of the most famous landmarks in the city. Also check out Lalbagh Fort and Ahsan Manzil. Entry fees for these sites are very low, usually under $2 for foreigners.
Budget about $40 to $80 per day for a mid range experience, excluding your hotel. High end hotels in Gulshan will run you $120 to $200 per night.
Go between November and February. This is the peak season because the weather is actually manageable. Temperatures usually sit between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It is the only time you can walk through Old Dhaka without feeling like you are in a sauna. Expect higher hotel prices in areas like Gulshan and Banani during these months.
The sweet spot is March or late October. In March, the heat is starting to climb, but the heavy crowds have left. In October, the monsoon rains finish, leaving the city green and the air slightly fresher. You can often find better deals on mid-range hotels, usually between 40 and 80 USD per night.
Avoid June through August. This is the heart of the monsoon. The humidity is oppressive and temperatures often hit 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Heavy rains cause flash floods that turn streets into rivers, making traffic a nightmare. You will spend more time stuck in a car than seeing the city.
If you can, time your visit for mid-April to see Pohela Boishakh, the Bengali New Year. The city turns red and white. It is crowded, but the energy is worth it.
When you are there, head to Old Dhaka for Kacchi Biryani. A plate usually costs between 3 and 6 USD. While you are in that area, visit Lalbagh Fort and the pink palace, Ahsan Manzil. For a quieter vibe, walk around the lakes in Dhanmondi.
Keep your budget practical. A rickshaw ride across town should cost you 1 to 3 USD. Street snacks like Fuchka are very cheap, often under 1 USD per serving. If you want a nice dinner in Gulshan, expect to pay 15 to 25 USD per person.