Beijing
Everything you need to know before you go.
Beijing is a city of massive scale. It is great for history buffs and people who enjoy the energy of a huge metropolis. The vibe is a constant contrast between imperial monuments and gray, modern skyscrapers. Spend your first few days at the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven. To see the Great Wall, go to the Mutianyu section to avoid the heaviest crowds. Entry fees for most major sites are affordable, usually ranging from $5 to $15.
Walk through the Hutongs in the Dongcheng district to see traditional courtyard houses and narrow alleys. If you want modern nightlife and international shopping, head to Sanlitun in the Chaoyang district. For food, Peking Duck is the main event. A high end dinner will cost $40 to $80 per person. Try Zhajiangmian, which are thick noodles with fermented soybean paste, for a cheaper local meal between $5 and $10.
Sightseeing Forbidden City - Walk the main axis of the old imperial palace. $6, 4h. Temple of Heaven - See the circular altar where emperors prayed for harvests. $4, 2h.
Food & Drink Siji Minfu - Eat authentic Peking Duck in the Dongcheng district. $30, 2h. Nanluoguxiang - Try street snacks like candied haws in the hutongs. $10, 2h.
Outdoor Nature Jingshan Park - Climb the hill for the best view of the Forbidden City. $1, 1h. Summer Palace - Walk around Kunming Lake and the royal gardens. $4, 3h.
Nightlife Sanlitun - Grab cocktails at the bars around the Taikoo Li area. $20, 3h.
Cultural 798 Art District - Visit the galleries in the old factory complex. $0, 3h. Lama Temple - Visit the main Tibetan Buddhist temple in the city. $4, 2h.
Shopping Panjiayuan Antique Market - Hunt for old porcelain and calligraphy. $20, 3h.
Day Trips Mutianyu Great Wall - Hike the wall sections that are less crowded than Badaling. $30, 6h.
Here are some spots I'd suggest for your trip to Beijing.
Budget The Old Beijing Hutong Hotel - Dongcheng. $30-60/night. You stay in a real courtyard near the Forbidden City. Peking Hopons Hostel - Dongcheng. $20-40/night. It is a good spot to meet people and walk to Wangfujing.
Mid-range Novotel Peace - Dongcheng. $120-180/night. It is central and the rooms are consistent. Hotel Nuwa - Dongcheng. $160-230/night. It is close to the embassy district and high end shops.
Luxury The Peninsula Beijing - Dongcheng. $500-800/night. The rooms are massive and the staff is helpful. Aman Summer Palace - Haidian. $1,200-2,000/night. You can see the lake and it is very quiet.
Restaurants Siji Minfu - Peking Duck, Dongcheng. Mid-range. Order the roast duck and honey-glazed buns. Hai Di Lao - Hot Pot, Dongcheng. Mid-range. Try the tomato soup base and shrimp paste. King's Joy - Vegetarian, Dongcheng. Luxury. High end tasting menu in a courtyard. Quanjude - Peking Duck, Dongcheng. Expensive. The standard spot for traditional roast duck. Nanmen Roasted Duck - Peking Duck, Xicheng. Budget. Cheap and authentic roast duck. Grandma's Home - Home-style Chinese, Dongcheng. Budget. Good for traditional family dishes.
You have two main airport options: Beijing Capital (PEK) and Beijing Daxing (PKX). Daxing is newer and often faster to get out of, but PEK handles more of the older flight routes.
Flight costs from the US vary by season. From LAX or SFO, expect to pay between $900 and $1,600 for economy. From JFK, it usually runs higher, between $1,200 and $2,000.
To get to the city center, you have a few choices. A taxi or a Didi (the local version of Uber) will cost between $40 and $70. Traffic is heavy, so expect the ride to take 60 to 90 minutes. The Airport Express train is the faster, cheaper bet. It costs about $6 to $10 and takes about 20 to 30 minutes to reach the city edge, where you can switch to the subway.
If you are already in China, take the high speed rail. From Tianjin, the trip is only 30 minutes and costs around $20. From Shanghai, it is a longer haul but very efficient.
For neighborhoods, look at Dongcheng if you want to be near the old Hutongs and the Forbidden City. If you prefer modern hotels and nightlife, stay in Chaoyang, specifically around Sanlitun.
When it comes to food, you have to eat Peking Duck. Go to a place like Siji Minfu. A full meal there will cost you $40 to $70 per person. For something cheaper, find a local spot for Zhajiangmian, which are thick noodles with soybean paste. Those usually cost $5 to $10.
For sightseeing, the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven are the big ones. If you go to the Great Wall, skip the crowded Badaling section and go to Mutianyu. The cable car and entry fees will put you around $30 to $50 for the day.
Beijing is a city of extremes. If you time it wrong, you will either be freezing in a grey haze or fighting crowds at the Forbidden City in 95 degree heat. Here is how to time your trip.
The Sweet Spot: September to November This is the best time to go. The weather is crisp, the sky is usually clear, and the autumn colors in the Fragrant Hills are incredible. Temperatures usually sit between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Avoid the first week of October at all costs. This is Golden Week, a national holiday where millions of domestic tourists flood the city. Hotels spike in price and you will wait hours for everything. If you visit in late September or November, you will find shorter lines and more reasonable hotel rates, usually between 80 and 150 USD for a decent mid range spot.
The Peak: June to August This is the official peak season because of school holidays. It is hot, humid, and rainy. Temperatures often hit the 90s. You will be shoulder to shoulder with people at the Great Wall.
If you must go now, head to the Mutianyu section of the wall instead of Badaling to avoid the worst of the crowds. Expect to pay about 15 to 30 USD for a private car or tour to get out there.
The Budget Choice: December to February It is brutally cold, often dropping below freezing, and the air quality can be poor. However, this is when prices are lowest. You can find great hotel deals and the city is quiet.
Timing your visit around the Lunar New Year is a gamble. Some shops close, but the festive decorations are great. If you go in winter, eat mutton hot pot to stay warm. A hearty meal at a local spot will cost you about 10 to 20 USD.
The Wildcard: March to May Spring is beautiful when the cherry blossoms bloom, with temperatures ranging from 40 to 70 degrees. The downside is the wind. Beijing gets seasonal sandstorms from the Gobi Desert that turn the sky yellow and make the air thick. It is a gamble.
Practical Tips for Your Trip
Where to eat and what to order Skip the tourist traps. Go to Siji Minfu for Peking Duck. It costs about 25 to 40 USD per person. For something cheaper, find a small shop in the Hutongs near Houhai and order Zhajiangmian, which are thick noodles with soybean paste. A bowl usually costs 4 to 8 USD.
Where to walk Spend time in the Hutongs (narrow alleys) around the Drum and Bell Towers. It is the best way to see the old city. If you want to see the modern side, walk around Sanlitun. This is where you will find the high end shops and the best international bars.
Landmarks to prioritize The Forbidden City is a must, but you have to book tickets in advance online. The Temple of Heaven is best visited early in the morning to see locals practicing Tai Chi. For the Great Wall, Mutianyu is the right choice because it has a toboggan ride to get you back down the mountain.