Alexandria
Everything you need to know before you go.
Alexandria runs on sea breeze and slow mornings rather than the frantic energy of Cairo. The city stretches along the Mediterranean coast, where Roman columns sit next to weathered Ottoman houses and French colonial balconies. You will notice the pace immediately. Locals walk with purpose, but the waterfront slows everything down. This place works best for travelers who want historical depth without the crowds, architecture lovers who appreciate worn stone and coastal decay, and anyone who needs a few days to breathe after the capital. The atmosphere is quiet, slightly weathered, and deeply practical. You are not here for polished resorts. You are here for salt air, old libraries, and streets that still smell like grilled fish and cardamom coffee.
Start your route at Raml Station, where the downtown grid still follows early twentieth century French plans. Walk east to Stanley, where independent bookshops and waterfront cafes line the corniche. Budget travelers can grab fresh grilled sardines and feteer meshaltet at El Fishawy for around $3 to $5. Midrange dinners at local seafood joints along Port Said Street run $8 to $12 per person. Head north to Montaza to wander the Qubba Palace gardens and check the Mediterranean tide at no cost. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina sits on the waterfront and charges roughly $4 to $6 for general access, with special exhibitions costing slightly more. For ancient history, take a short taxi ride to Kom El-Dikka to see the Roman villa ruins and Pompey’s Pillar, both under $5 to enter. The Qaitbay Citadel, built on the exact site of the ancient lighthouse, costs about $3 and offers direct harbor views. Use the local microbus network for under $1 per ride, but keep your phone charged for ride-hailing apps when the sun drops. Alexandria rewards slow walking, early coffee, and straight talk. Pack light, wear comfortable shoes, and let the coast set your pace.
Sightseeing Qaitbay Citadel - Walk the stone ramparts for a clear view of the harbor and grab a quick coffee at the nearby Raml station kiosk. $3, 2h. Kom el-Shoqafa Catacombs - Book your tickets online to skip the queue before exploring the carved burial chambers in the El Raml district. $8, 1.5h.
Food & Drink Sayadieh at Fish Market Street - Order the spiced rice and fried tilapia from any vendor near the Raml Station entrance and eat it standing up. $4, 1h. Feteer Meshaltet at El Fisher Café - Split a flaky layered pastry with honey and black tea while watching the street life on El Geish. $3, 0.5h.
Outdoor Nature Alexandria Corniche - Lace up your shoes and walk the full stretch from Raml Station to Sidi Gaber to catch the sea breeze. $0, 2h. Montaza Gardens - Rent a bicycle inside the royal compound to avoid walking the hot asphalt paths during midday. $2, 3h.
Nightlife Maamoun Street pubs - Hop between the casual bars and live music spots until you find one with open seating and decent draft beer. $8, 3h. Raml Station rooftop lounges - Grab a table at sunset to watch the ferries cross the Mediterranean while ordering affordable cocktails. $10, 2h.
Cultural Greco-Roman Museum - Focus on the sarcophagi and statues in the first floor before your legs give out from the heat. $5, 2h. Bibliotheca Alexandrina - Walk the main reading hall and check the exhibition schedule before you commit to the full tour. $3, 3h.
Shopping El Geish Street souks - Haggle firmly at the textile stalls and buy spices only from vendors who weigh them in front of you. $15, 2h. Montaza Mall - Stick to the ground floor for local handicrafts and skip the upper levels where prices inflate for tourists. $20, 2h.
Here is how I would split your time in Alexandria. I keep prices in USD and focus on areas that actually make sense to navigate.
Budget Alexandria International Hostel - Raml Station. $15-$28/night. Clean dorms and private rooms sit within ten minutes of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. Stanley Hostel - Stanley. $20-$35/night. Walking distance to the old Greek quarter and cheap local coffee.
Mid-range Hotel du Lac - Sidi Gaber. $65-$95/night. Reliable amenities and easy tram access to the main square. El Gezirah Hotel - Raml Station. $70-$100/night. Rooftop terrace with clear views of the harbor and old city.
Luxury St. Regis Alexandria - San Stefano. $220-$380/night. Polished service, private beach section, and strong rooftop bar. Kempinski Hotel Alexandria - San Stefano. $180-$300/night. Consistent high standards, large pool, and direct beach access.
Restaurants El Fishawy - Raml Station - Seafood - $8-$15 per person. Order the fried pomfret and grilled squid. El Dohokya - El Manshiya - Traditional Egyptian - $5-$10 per person. Their koshary and molokhia are legendary. Taverne - Stanley - French Mediterranean - $15-$25 per person. Reliable pasta and fresh catches. Abu Ashraf - Stanley - Egyptian - $10-$18 per person. Try the lamb kofta and pickled vegetables. St. Elia - Montaza - Italian and Seafood - $20-$35 per person. Beachfront setting with solid seafood plates.
Skip the hotel buffets. Walk to Raml Station for street food and take the tram to Stanley for older architecture. Book the luxury hotels in advance during summer because rates jump quickly. Let me know if you need transit tips.
Assuming you mean Alexandria, Egypt. If you meant Alexandria, Virginia, the airports and costs change completely, but I will cover the Egyptian city since it is the usual travel destination.
Airports and Flight Costs Alexandria has one commercial airport, Borg El Arab Airport (HBE). Direct international flights are rare. Most travelers fly into Cairo International Airport (CAI) instead and continue by train or bus. Economy roundtrip fares from the US run $800 to $1,100 when booking two months out. New York and Chicago land in that range. Los Angeles and Houston typically cost $900 to $1,300. Prices spike during Ramadan, Eid, and the December to February tourist season. Book through the airline or a major aggregator. Skip third-party sites that add booking fees at checkout.
From HBE to the City HBE sits about forty-five kilometers from the center. Official airport taxis charge 800 to 1,200 Egyptian pounds, roughly $17 to $25. Uber and Careem work well and usually run $15 to $20. The drive takes forty-five to sixty minutes. Public transit does not reach HBE. You must take a taxi to a main road or station first. Do not accept offers from drivers outside the official desk.
From CAI to Alexandria Fly into Cairo and take a taxi or Uber to Ramses Railway Station or Cairo Station. That leg costs $10 to $15 and takes about an hour depending on traffic. From there, board an Egyptian National Railways train to Alexandria. Second class seats cost $6 to $8. Second class sleepers cost $12 to $15. The trip takes three hours. GoBus or Superjet buses leave frequently from Cairo and cost $5 to $8. They take two and a half hours. Trains are more comfortable. GoBus has clean vehicles and reliable schedules. Superjet is fine but slightly older. Book train tickets through the official app or station counter. Do not buy from street touts.
Driving or Coming from Nearby Cities If you drive from Cairo, take the Desert Road. It takes two and a half hours. Tolls run about $5. The road is wide and well-paved but watch for heavy trucks and sudden speed bumps. Abu Qir sits just east of the city. You can walk or take a short taxi ride to the main roads from there. No direct trains connect the Mediterranean coastal towns to Alexandria. You must route through Cairo or use local buses.
Where to Stay and What to Do Stay near Raml Station or Stanley for walkable streets, old architecture, and cafes. The Corniche runs along the water and works for evening walks. Montaza is quieter and better for families. Sporting has wider streets and older villas. Fouad Street has shops and older buildings. Eat at Raml Station for fresh seafood. Try feseekh if you want local tradition, but only buy it from reputable vendors during the spring season. Koshary is everywhere and costs $2 to $3. Mahshi shows up on most menus and runs $3 to $5. Visit the Bibliotheca Alexandrina for the library and museum. The Citadel of Qaitbay sits on the water and offers clear views. Pompey’s Pillar and the Catacombs are inland.
Practical Tips Carry US dollars in small bills. Many places accept cards, but street vendors and older taxis prefer cash. Exchange at the airport or a licensed bureau. Do not trust unofficial money changers. Taxis do not use meters. Agree on a price before you get in. Rideshare apps are safer and cheaper. Bring comfortable shoes. The streets are uneven. Weather gets hot in summer. Winter is mild but rainy. Book trains and buses in advance during holidays. Prices shift with currency fluctuations, so check current rates before you travel. Keep your itinerary flexible and move at a steady pace.
Alexandria hits different depending on when you show up. This city breathes with the wind and the crowds. Cairo is the chaos, but Alexandria is the coast. You come for the salt air, the Greek ruins, and the slower pace, but the timing dictates whether you get a relaxing break or a sweaty, crowded headache. Here is the straight talk on when to go.
Sweet Spot: April and October
These are your months. The weather sits at a comfortable 20°C to 25°C. The humidity drops, and the wind feels fresh rather than heavy. Prices for hotels stay reasonable, and you avoid the local exodus that chokes the roads.
April Temperatures hover around 22°C. This is when Egyptians celebrate Sham el-Nessim, the spring festival marking the equinox. You will see families spreading checkers on the grass and eating foul and taameya.
- What to do: Head to Montaza Palace and Gardens early in the morning to beat the crowds. Walk along the Corniche toward Raml Station. Eat taameya from a street cart. Alexandria taameya uses fava beans, not chickpeas, and it is greener and crispier than the Cairo version.
- Events: Sham el-Nessim usually falls in late March or early April. Expect picnics everywhere.
- Prices: Hotel rooms in Raml Station area run $50 to $80. A sit-down dinner with fish costs $10 to $15.
October Temperatures cool to 23°C. The sea is still warm enough for a dip, but the sun is not brutal. This month hosts the Alexandria International Book Fair, which draws writers and intellectuals.
- What to do: Visit the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. The architecture is striking, and the atmosphere is calm. Book tickets online to skip the line. Walk through Stanley neighborhood for coffee. The streets here have British colonial architecture and cozy cafes. Grab a koshary at a local joint for $3.
- Events: Alexandria Book Fair usually runs through October. Check dates for specific authors.
- Prices: Hotels drop slightly to $45 to $75. Street food remains $2 to $4.
Peak Months: June, July, August
Egyptians flee the heat of Cairo and descend on the coast. You will feel this immediately. Traffic between Raml Station and Stanley becomes gridlocked. Hotels raise rates. The air grows heavy with humidity.
Why go? If you want energy and nightlife. The city wakes up at night. You get the Alexandria Sea Festival, which features music stages, food stalls, and fireworks.
- What to do: Go to the Sea Festival in late June or early July. It is loud and crowded but fun for a few hours. Stay in Stanley for evening drinks and seafood grills. Visit Qaitbay Citadel to see the Mediterranean from the fortress walls, but go at sunset to avoid the heat.
- Temperatures: 30°C to 35°C with humidity often over 70%. It feels hotter than the thermometer says.
- Prices: Hotels jump 30% to 50%. Expect $100 to $150 for a standard room in Raml. A meal at a fish restaurant in El-Fishawy district costs $15 to $25.
- Advice: Do not drive during rush hour. Use Uber or the metro if you can. Avoid Pompey's Pillar midday; the stone holds heat and offers no shade.
Months to Avoid: July and January
July Combine peak crowds with peak heat. The sea breeze is weak. You spend more time sweating than sightseeing. The Sea Festival happens, but the heat makes outdoor activities miserable.
- Temperatures: 32°C to 36°C. Humidity peaks.
- Advice: Skip this month unless you have no other option. If you must go, book a hotel with a pool and stay indoors during the day.
January This is the rainy season. Alexandria gets real rain that can flood low-lying streets. The city feels damp and cold. The wind cuts through layers.
- Temperatures: 10°C to 16°C. Night drops to 8°C.
- What to do: If you visit, go for Coptic Christmas on January 7. The mass at Abu Abbas Mosque is historic. Eat mahshi (stuffed vegetables) at a local eatery for $5.
- Advice: Pack a waterproof jacket. Avoid Kom el-Dika archaeological site if it has rained recently; the ruins are slippery and the area can flood.
Shoulder Months: March, May, September, November
These months work but have quirks.
March Temps around 19°C. Good weather, but wind can pick up. The Khamsin wind sometimes brings sand.
- Advice: Check the forecast. If the wind blows, stay in Stanley cafes or the Bibliotheca.
May Temps rise to 26°C. Early May is fine. Late May feels like summer is starting.
- Advice: Go early in the month. Visit the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa. The mosaics are detailed and the history is deep. Entry is $5.
September Temps stay warm at 28°C. The "Shahr el-Elaf" month is still hot.
- Advice: Wait for October. September is just summer lingering with higher prices before the drop.
November Temps cool to 21°C. Quiet and pleasant.
- Advice: This is a great time for photography. The light is soft. Visit the Greco-Roman Museum. It is smaller than Cairo's museum but packed with artifacts. Entry is $5.
Practical Tips
- Neighborhoods: Raml Station has the opera house and grand hotels. Stanley has the nightlife and cafes. Montaza is for palaces and green space. Kom el-Dika is for ruins near the water.
- Dishes: Taameya (fava bean falafel), foul medames, fish grill from the port, and molokhia soup.
- Landmarks: Bibliotheca Alexandrina, Qaitbay Citadel, Pompey's Pillar, Abu Abbas Mosque, Montaza Palace, Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa.
- Prices: Street food $2 to $4. Mid-range dinner $10 to $15. Budget hotel $40 to $60. Mid-range hotel $80 to $120. Peak season adds $30 to $50 to hotel rates.
- Transport: Uber works well. Taxis require negotiation. The metro is cheap but crowded during rush hour.
Bottom line: Aim for April or October. You get the best weather, fair prices, and a chance to experience the city as it truly is, not as a crowded summer escape. Skip July for the sweat and January for the rain.