Delhi
Everything you need to know before you go.
Delhi is an assault on the senses. It is loud and crowded, but the history is everywhere. If you enjoy navigating chaos to find something ancient, you will like it here. Spend time in Old Delhi, where the streets are narrow and packed. Visit the Red Fort and walk through Chandni Chowk. For a different feel, head to New Delhi to see the Qutub Minar or Humayun's Tomb. These areas are more spaced out and easier to breathe in.
The food is the main event. You have to try Chole Bhature for breakfast and Butter Chicken for dinner. Street snacks like Aloo Tikki cost about $1 to $3. A nice dinner at a spot in Connaught Place will run you $15 to $30 per person. If you want to shop or hang out, Hauz Khas Village has a good mix of cafes and ruins. For luxury shopping and high end dining, stick to South Delhi.
Get around using Uber or the Metro. The Metro is clean and cheap, usually costing under $2 per trip. Be prepared for heavy pollution in the winter. Stay in a hotel in South Delhi or Connaught Place to avoid the worst of the noise. Budget about $50 to $100 a day for a comfortable mid range experience, though you can survive on $20 if you eat street food.
Sightseeing Red Fort - The massive sandstone fortress of the Mughal emperors. $5, 3h. Humayun's Tomb - Huge Mughal garden tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal. $4, 2h. Qutub Minar - A massive victory tower from the 12th century. $5, 2h.
Food & Drink Paranthe Wali Gali - Eat deep fried stuffed flatbreads in the narrow lanes of Old Delhi. $3, 1h. Karim's - Get the mutton stew and khameeri roti near Jama Masjid. $8, 1h.
Outdoor Nature Lodhi Gardens - A peaceful spot for a morning walk among ancient tombs. Free, 2h. Sunder Nursery - A restored park with beautiful landscaping and monuments. $1, 2h.
Nightlife Hauz Khas Village - Visit a rooftop bar for drinks overlooking the lake and ruins. $15, 3h.
Cultural Akshardham Temple - An enormous modern temple complex with detailed carvings. Free, 4h.
Shopping Janpath Market - Pick up silver jewelry and handicrafts near Connaught Place. $10, 2h. Sarojini Nagar - Hunt for cheap branded clothing leftovers. $15, 3h.
Day Trips Agra - Take a fast train to see the Taj Mahal. $40, 12h.
Budget Zostel - Paharganj. $15-30/night. Good for meeting other travelers and walking to the New Delhi Railway Station. Bloomrooms - Connaught Place. $40-60/night. Very clean and located right in the central shopping district.
Mid-range Haveli Dharampura - Old Delhi. $120-200/night. A restored mansion that lets you experience the walled city without the chaos. The Manor - Friends Colony. $150-250/night. Quiet gardens and a slower pace than the city center.
Luxury The Taj Mahal Hotel - Mansingh Road. $400-700/night. The best service in the city and close to India Gate. The Oberoi - Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg. $600-900/night. Massive rooms with views of Humayun's Tomb.
Restaurants Karims (Old Delhi, Mughlai, $5-15): Order the Mutton Stew and Khamiri Roti. AMA Cafe (Majnu ka Tilla, Tibetan, $10-20): Great coffee and cheesecake in the Tibetan colony. Indian Accent (Lodhi Road, Modern Indian, $60-120): Try the Som rushed potato. Bukhara (ITC Maurya, North Indian, $40-80): Get the Dal Bukhara and tandoori chicken. Lotan Chole Kulche (Near Old Delhi Station, Street Food, $2-5): Simple, spicy chickpea curry with bread.
Fly into Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL). If you are coming from the US, expect to pay between $900 and $1,500 for a round trip from cities like New York, San Francisco, or Chicago. Prices spike during December and January.
To get to the city center, use Uber or Ola. A ride to Connaught Place or South Delhi usually costs $12 to $20. It takes about 45 to 90 minutes depending on traffic. If you want to avoid the cars, take the Airport Express Metro. It costs about $2 and gets you to New Delhi Station in 20 minutes. From there, you can grab a shorter rickshaw ride to your hotel.
If you are already in India, you can get to Delhi from Agra or Jaipur. The Gatimaan Express train from Agra is the fastest way, taking about 1 hour and 40 minutes. Driving from Agra takes 3 to 4 hours via the Yamuna Expressway.
Stay in South Delhi neighborhoods like Greater Kailash or Hauz Khas if you want quieter streets and better cafes. Connaught Place is better if you want to be central.
For food, go to Chandni Chowk and eat Chole Bhature at Sita Ram Diwan Chand. A plate costs about $2. For a sit down dinner, try Butter Chicken at Moti Mahal. Expect to pay $10 to $20 per person at mid range restaurants.
Visit the Qutub Minar and Humayun's Tomb. Entry fees for foreigners are higher than for locals, usually ranging from $5 to $10. Avoid the tourist traps right outside the monuments. Stick to the official ticket counters.
Avoid Delhi from May to August. The heat is brutal, often hitting 45C (113F), and the humidity during the monsoon makes walking outside almost impossible. You will spend your entire trip inside air conditioned rooms.
The Peak Season: November to February This is when most people go. The weather is cool and comfortable, with temperatures ranging from 8C to 22C (46F to 72F). It is the best time to walk through the Red Fort or Qutub Minar without sweating through your clothes.
If you time it for October or November, you can see Diwali. The city is full of lights and fireworks, though the air pollution gets very bad during this window. In January, the Republic Day parade on January 26 is a major event, but expect heavy security and road closures.
The Sweet Spot: March and October These are the transition months. In March, the temperature sits between 15C and 30C (59F to 86F). The crowds thin out compared to December, and hotel prices drop. You can find decent mid range hotels in South Delhi neighborhoods like Greater Kailash for $40 to $70 per night.
October is great because the monsoon rains have ended and the winter chill hasn't fully arrived. It is a good time to visit Hauz Khas Village for dinner. You can get a great meal of Butter Chicken and Garlic Naan for $10 to $15 per person at a mid range spot.
The Avoid Zone: May to September May and June are dangerous. The heat is oppressive. July through September is monsoon season. While the rain cools things down, it causes massive traffic jams and flooding in low lying areas.
Practical Tips and Costs When you are in Old Delhi, go to Chandni Chowk. Eat Chole Bhature (spicy chickpeas and fried bread) at a street stall. It costs about $2 to $4. If you want something more upscale, head to Connaught Place. A nice dinner there will run you $20 to $30.
For transport, use Uber or Ola. A typical ride across the city costs between $3 and $8. Avoid the random rickshaws unless you enjoy haggling for twenty minutes over a few cents.
Quick Summary Peak: November to February. Great weather, high prices, high crowds. Sweet Spot: March and October. Moderate weather, better prices. Avoid: May to September. Extreme heat and rain.