Mumbai
Everything you need to know before you go.
Mumbai is an assault on the senses. It is loud, crowded, and fast. You will love it if you enjoy high energy and the contrast of extreme wealth sitting next to extreme poverty. The vibe is an endless rush of people and cars. Start at the Gateway of India in Colaba to see the colonial architecture, then visit the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, which is a stunning piece of Gothic engineering. For a break from the noise, walk along Marine Drive at sunset to watch the city lights come on.
Stick to Colaba for your first few days because it is walkable and has plenty of shops. If you want a more laid back atmosphere with cool cafes and street art, spend time in Bandra. When it comes to food, you have to eat Vada Pav, the local spicy potato burger, which costs about $1 to $2 at a street stall. Try Pav Bhaji for around $3 to $5. For a sit down dinner in a decent restaurant, expect to pay $15 to $30 per person.
Transport is mostly via black and yellow taxis or Uber, with most short trips costing under $5. If you have a full day, take the ferry to the Elephanta Caves. Be ready for intense humidity and heavy traffic. It is a city that rewards curiosity but requires a lot of patience.
Sightseeing Gateway of India - Walk around the waterfront in Colaba. $0, 1h. Marine Drive - Walk the promenade at sunset. $0, 2h.
Food & Drink Ashok Vada Pav - Eat the spicy potato burger near Dadar station. $1, 0.5h. Kyani & Co - Order Bun Maska and Irani chai in South Mumbai. $3, 1h.
Outdoor Nature Sanjay Gandhi National Park - Rent a bike to see the forest. $5, 4h.
Nightlife AntiSocial - Drink cocktails and listen to indie music in Lower Parel. $20, 3h.
Cultural Kanheri Caves - Explore ancient Buddhist rock-cut shrines. $2, 3h. Mani Bhavan - Visit Gandhi's former residence in Gamdevi. $0, 1.5h.
Shopping Colaba Causeway - Haggle for jewelry and clothes. $10, 2h.
Day Trips Elephanta Caves - Take the ferry from Gateway of India to see rock carvings. $15, 6h.
Here are my recommendations for Mumbai.
Budget Zostel - Colaba. $15-30. Walk to the Gateway of India and Colaba Causeway. The Hosteller - Andheri. $15-25. Good for airport access and suburban travel.
Mid-range Bloom Hotel - Juhu. $70-120. Clean, minimalist rooms near Juhu Beach. Sahara Star - Vile Parle. $120-200. High quality and very close to the airport.
Luxury The Taj Mahal Palace - Colaba. $500-900. Unmatched history and views of the harbor. The Oberoi - Nariman Point. $400-700. Best views of the Marine Drive skyline.
Restaurants Ashok Vada Pav, $1-5, Street Food, Dadar. Order the Vada Pav. Britannia & Co, $15-30, Parsi, Colaba. Try the Berry Pulao. Trishna, $30-60, Seafood, Kala Patara. Get the Butter Garlic Crab. The Table, $50-100, Modern European, Colaba. Good for a high end meal. Leopold Cafe, $15-30, Multi-cuisine, Colaba. Try the mixed grill.
Fly into Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (BOM). If you are flying from New York, San Francisco, or Chicago, expect to pay between $900 and $1,500 for a round trip. Prices jump during December and January.
From the airport, stick to Uber or Ola. A ride to Colaba or Bandra costs between $12 and $25. Do not trust random drivers shouting at you in the terminal. You can also use the prepaid taxi counters inside the airport for about $10 to $15. Be prepared for the traffic. A trip to the city center can take anywhere from 60 to 120 minutes depending on the time of day. Public transit from the airport is a hassle because you have to take a taxi to the nearest railway station first.
If you are coming from Pune, you can take a train or hire a private car. The drive takes about 3 hours and costs around $40 to $70.
Stay in Colaba if you want to be near the historic sites or Bandra if you prefer a more relaxed vibe with better cafes. Walk around Marine Drive at sunset and visit the Gateway of India.
Eat Vada Pav from a street stall for about $1. Try Pav Bhaji at Sardar in Tardeo for $5. For a sit down meal at a place like Leopold Cafe in Colaba, expect to pay $15 to $25 per person. Most mid range restaurants will cost you $10 to $20 for a full dinner.
Mumbai is a city of extremes. If you time it wrong, you will spend your entire trip sweating through your clothes or dodging waist-deep water in the streets.
November to February: The Sweet Spot This is the best time to go. The humidity drops and the temperature stays between 65°F and 90°F. It is peak season, so hotels in Colaba and Bandra will be more expensive, but the weather makes it worth it.
You can actually walk around the Gateway of India or stroll along Marine Drive without needing a shower every two hours. February is particularly great because of the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival. It turns the South Mumbai neighborhood into a giant gallery.
Budget around $1 to $3 for street food like Vada Pav. A decent mid-range dinner at a place like Leopold Cafe will cost you $15 to $25 per person.
March to May: The Heat Avoid these months if you can. Temperatures hit 100°F and the humidity is oppressive. You will feel exhausted just walking from your hotel to a taxi.
If you must visit, spend your afternoons in air-conditioned malls or museums. Head to Juhu Beach only after 6 PM when the breeze kicks in. You will find that hotel prices drop slightly, but you will spend more on Ubers because walking is not an option.
June to September: The Monsoon This is a gamble. The rain is relentless, and the city frequently floods, which shuts down traffic. Temperatures hover around 80°F.
The only reason to visit during this window is Ganesh Chaturthi, which usually falls in August or September. The energy in neighborhoods like Dadar is insane as people carry massive idols through the streets. It is chaotic, but it is the most authentic Mumbai experience you can have.
Stick to hearty, spicy foods like Misal Pav ($3) to keep warm. A budget hotel in this season might cost $30 to $50 a night, while luxury spots in the BKC area stay around $200.
Quick Practical Tips Stick to Uber or Rickshaws. Rickshaws are cheap and fast, usually costing $2 to $5 for short trips.
For food, try a Bombay Sandwich from a street vendor for about $2. For a sit-down meal, look for Parsi cafes in South Mumbai for Keema Pav.
If you visit in the winter, book your hotels early. If you visit in the monsoon, bring waterproof shoes that can handle puddles.