Cozumel
Everything you need to know before you go.
Cozumel is a Caribbean island off the Yucatán Peninsula that focuses more on underwater exploration than lounging on the sand. If you want white sandy beaches, you are better off heading to Tulum or Isla Mujeres. This spot is really for people who love diving, as that is the main draw here. The vibe is generally safe and friendly, with prices similar to other Mexican tourist hubs. Keep in mind that from December through April, the island gets crowded because up to six large cruise ships can dock at the port every day.
To get there, you can fly directly into Cozumel International Airport (CZM) from cities like Dallas, Miami, or Toronto. If you fly into Cancun (CUN), you can take a shared van to Playa del Carmen for about 300 pesos and then catch a ferry across via Winjet or Ultramar for around 13 USD each way. For a better experience, there is a 15 minute flight from the Cancun domestic terminal on Aerus that costs about 50 USD per person.
Since you are visiting Mexico, make sure to try local staples like cochinita pibil or fresh ceviche while exploring. While the island is known for its diving sites and safe streets, it remains a practical destination for those who prefer the ocean over the beach.
Sightseeing
- San Gervasio - Visit this Mayan worship center dedicated to the goddess Ixchel located north of Carretera Transversal. $5, 3h.
- El Caracol - Check out this Mayan temple at the southern tip of the island in Punta Sur Park that likely served as a lighthouse. $10, 2h.
Outdoor Nature
- Palancar Reef - Go drift diving here to see eagle rays and seahorses. $70, 4h.
- East Side Beaches - Rent a scooter to visit the undeveloped east coast for big waves and blow holes. $15, 5h.
Cultural
- El Cedral - Explore this inland Mayan archaeological site located near the village of El Cedral. $5, 2h.
Shopping
- San Miguel Shops - Walk through the main town on the west side to find local gear and souvenirs. $20, 2h.
Day Trips
- Boat Diving with Blue Magic - Use this operator for fast boats and a free taxi from downtown Cozumel. $70, 4h.
- Afternoon Dives with Aqua Safari - Take a one tank afternoon trip if you want a cheaper option. $40, 2h.
- Night Dives with Aldora Divers - Head to Palancar Beach Club for an evening dive. $60, 3h.
Here are some spots to stay in Cozumel based on what you need:
Budget
- Hotel Flamingo - Calle 6 Norte. ~$50/night. Simple rooms with a high quality breakfast included.
- Villas El Encanto - Col. Andres Quintana. Starts at $50/night. Cozy rooms with AC and access to yoga or fishing trips.
Mid-range
- Hotel Las Anclas - South 5th Avenue. $80 to $120/night. It has spacious suites in a quiet tropical garden.
- Villablanca Garden Beach Hotel - Costera Sur Km 3. $50 to $150/night. Great for divers since it is right next to three scuba shops.
Luxury
- Occidental Allegro Resort - Carretera Sur Kilómetro 17.5. ~$150+/night. A five star beachfront all inclusive with a swim up bar.
- Cozumel Palace - Hotel Zone. ~$350+/night. Five star all inclusive suites with ocean views and 24 hour room service.
For food, I suggest checking out these options:
- El Cid La Ceiba Restaurant (Oceanfront/International) - Carretera A Chankanaab. High end.
- Villablanca Garden Beach Hotel Restaurant (International) - Costera Sur Km 3. Mid range.
- Villas Deja Blue Restaurant (International) - Calle 21 Sur. Mid range.
- Occidental Allegro on site restaurants (All inclusive/Buffet) - Carretera Sur Kilómetro 17.5. Included with stay.
Depending on your budget and how much hassle you want, you have three main ways to get to Cozumel.
Flying In The easiest way is flying directly into Cozumel International Airport (CZM). It gets flights from major US hubs like Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Houston, and Miami.
If you can't find a direct flight to CZM, fly into Cancún (CUN) or Tulum (TQO). From there, you have two choices:
- Take a small plane from Cancun airport's domestic terminal on Aerus for about US$50 one way. It only takes 15 minutes.
- Take ground transport to Playa del Carmen and then a ferry. A shared van from Cancun airport to Playa del Carmen costs around M$300 pesos per person, or you can take a bus for M$216 pesos.
The Ferry (From Playa del Carmen) Once you are in Playa del Carmen, use the ferry to cross over. Winjet and Ultramar both run hourly boats costing about US$13 per adult each way. Buy one way tickets instead of returns because they aren't transferable between companies.
Avoid the car ferry from Calica unless you have a specific reason to be there. It is a huge hassle with long waits and isn't recommended for short vacations.
Getting to the City Center Once you land or dock, you need to get into town (San Miguel). There is no public transit out of town.
If you are arriving by cruise ship, some ships dock downtown, while others use piers about two miles south of San Miguel. Be careful at the docks because pushy touts will try to lure you into timeshare scams.
For transport within town:
- Taxis: Cost M$30 to M$60 pesos for trips inside town. If you want to go to the west shore beaches, expect to pay US$20 or more.
- Car Rentals: A standard car is around US$55 per day, though you can bargain this down if you speak Spanish. For example, a VW Pointer at Less-Pay (near Hotel Barracuda) was posted at US$40 without taxes.
- Scooters: These cost about US$25 per day, but only rent one if you are an experienced rider to avoid accidents.
Cozumel is basically a giant coral reef with a town attached. If you want to avoid the cruise ship chaos, timing is everything.
Peak Season: December to April This is when everyone escapes the cold. The weather is perfect, usually between 70 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Prices for hotels in the San Miguel center or beachfront resorts jump by 30 to 50 percent. You will see thousands of people pouring off ships daily. It is the best time for visibility underwater at Palancar Reef, but you will fight for space at the popular beach clubs.
The Sweet Spot: May, June, and November May and June are great because the water is warm and the crowds thin out before summer break. November is a gamble with some rain, but prices drop. Temperatures hover around 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You can find decent Airbnbs in the residential areas away from the waterfront for $60 to $120 per night. This is when you can actually get a table at a local spot without waiting an hour.
Avoid: August to October This is hurricane season. It is hot, humid, and oppressive, often hitting 90 degrees Fahrenheit with high humidity. While the island doesn't always get hit directly, the storms make ferry travel from Playa del Carmen unreliable. If you go now, keep your budget low but your travel insurance high.
Things to Time Your Trip Around If you visit in early May, try to catch the festivities around Cinco de Mayo. It is less about tourists and more about local pride. For something bigger, Carnival usually happens in the spring. The streets of San Miguel fill up with music and dancing.
Practical Tips for Your Stay Skip the overpriced tourist menus on the main drag. Head to the smaller taquerias for Tacos al Pastor or Cochinita Pibil. A plate of authentic tacos will cost you $5 to $10 USD, whereas a "tourist" dinner at a waterfront spot will run you $30 to $50 per person.
Rent a scooter to get away from the docks. Ride south toward the Punta Sur Ecological Park. It is much quieter than the north end and has a lighthouse with a great view of the coast. Just be careful on the road, as the traffic can be messy near the ferry terminal.